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\chapter { Bibliography research}
\section { Extracting components from buoy data}
\paragraph { incident and reflected wave separation}
\cite { mansard1980measurement} : extract incident and reflected spectra from
spectrum measurements at three different points.
\cite { suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation,
roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation}
\paragraph { incident and reflected wave separation single gauge}
\paragraph { incident and reflected wave separation puv method}
Probablement très intéressant: \cite { inch2016accurate} :
\cite { sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant}
Très bien: \cite { huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming}
\cite { pedersen2007resolving}
\paragraph { puv method}
\cite { sobey1999locally}
\paragraph { artha breakwater reflection}
\cite { poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ}
\section { Reflection}
\paragraph { wave reflection analysis}
\cite { davidson1996new}
\section { Modeling wave impact on porous media}
\paragraph { olaFlow}
\cite { olaFlow,higuera2015application} : \cite { bogdanov2011direct,del2011three}
\section { Breakwater modeling}
\paragraph { modelling breakwater} sph: \cite { altomare2014numerical} ;
\paragraph { rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite { vanneste20152d,
sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical,
losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical}
\paragraph { breakwater model} \cite { hsu2002}
\section { Modeling}
\paragraph { using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite { thomas2015,
mentaschi2013,rusu2011}
\section { Block displacement}
\paragraph { boulder transport by waves} \cite { erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high}
\paragraph { boulder transport flow} \cite { nandasena2011reassessment,
nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role,
oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance}
\paragraph { storm waves boulder interaction} \cite { nandasena2011numerical}
Très intéressant: \cite { weiss2017toward} ,
\cite { sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads}
\paragraph { block transport by waves} \cite { imamura2008numerical,
barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
\section { Other}
\cite { miche1951}
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\cite { isobe1985method}
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\section { Flow in porous media}
\paragraph { wave flow porous media} \cite { SHAO2010304}