Report swash + sws_ola

report/chapters/swash.tex

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+\chapter{SWASH model}
+
+\section{1D model}
+
+In order to find out if the reflection induced by the breakwater has an
+influence on the sea state at the buoy's location, a one-dimensional model of
+the zone between the buoy and the breakwater was created.
+
+The considered domain is \SI{1450}{\m} long, with \SI{1250}{\m} between the
+buoy and the breakwater, and a further \SI{200}{\m} offshore of the buoy.
+The model is a 10 layers swash model accounting for porous media in near the
+breakwater. The model was adapted from PA Poncet.
+
+\subsection{Model 1}
+
+A first run was produced in order to test the model with a water level of
+\SI{0.5}{\m} using the measured spectrum from 2017-02-28 as the offshore
+boundary condition and a sommerfeld radiation condition on the breakwater
+boundary. The model was run over a duration of 30 minutes.
+
+The reflection coefficient at the buoy's location was computed using
+a PUV method \parencite{huntley1999use}.
+
+The results are displayed in \autoref{fig:swash_1_R}.
+
+\subsection{Model 2}
+
+An attempt at running the model with the correct water level (\SI{4.5}{\m}) was
+made without success, as the model does not seem to be able to compute
+overtopping. Changing the boundary condition at the breakwater does not fix the
+issue, and the model is not able to run with water on both sides of the
+breakwater as the initial condition.