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\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{report}
\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{book}
\usepackage{cours}
\setmainlanguage{english}
@ -27,91 +27,17 @@ at the Artha breakwater on February 28, 2017}
\date{February 2022}
\begin{document}
\frontmatter
\maketitle
\chapter*{Bibliography research}
\section{Extracting components from buoy data}
\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
spectrum measurements at three different points.
\cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation,
roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation}
\tableofcontents
\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge}
\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method}
Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}:
\cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant}
Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming}
\cite{pedersen2007resolving}
\paragraph{puv method}
\cite{sobey1999locally}
\paragraph{artha breakwater reflection}
\cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ}
\section{Reflection}
\paragraph{wave reflection analysis}
\cite{davidson1996new}
\section{Modeling wave impact on porous media}
\paragraph{olaFlow}
\cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three}
\section{Breakwater modeling}
\paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical};
\paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d,
sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical,
losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical}
\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002}
\section{Modeling}
\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015,
mentaschi2013,rusu2011}
\section{Block displacement}
\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high}
\paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment,
nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role,
oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance}
\paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical}
Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward},
\cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads}
\paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical,
barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
\section{Flow in porous media}
\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
\chapter{Introduction}
In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
numerical modeling.
The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
waves for validation.
\chapter{Literature Review}
In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
\mainmatter
\include{bibliography_research}
\include{introduction}
\include{literature}
\backmatter
\nocite{*}
\printbibliography
\end{document}