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Introduction

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biblio/main.tex
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@ -5,7 +5,8 @@
\usepackage[
backend=biber,
sorting=ynt,
style=iso-authoryear
style=iso-authoryear,
sorting=nyt,
]{biblatex}
\bibliography{library}
@ -15,7 +16,7 @@
\begin{document}
\maketitle
\section{Bibliography research}
\section*{Bibliography research}
\subsection{Extracting components from buoy data}
\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
@ -52,6 +53,9 @@ losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical}
\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002}
\subsection{Modeling}
\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015,
mentaschi2013,rusu2011}
\subsection{Block displacement}
\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
@ -68,6 +72,33 @@ barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
\subsection{Flow in porous media}
\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
\section{Introduction}
In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
numerical modeling.
The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
waves for validation.
\section{Literature Review}
In this section, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
\subsection{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
\nocite{*}
\printbibliography
\end{document}