Structure

biblio/chapters/introduction.tex

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+\chapter{Introduction}
+In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
+the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
+photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
+conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
+numerical modeling.
+
+The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
+the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
+of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
+\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
+
+This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
+obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
+thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
+However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
+it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
+buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
+especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
+simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
+waves for validation.

biblio/chapters/literature.tex

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+\chapter{Literature Review}
+In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
+
+\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
+
+The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
+modeling a seastate. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
+model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
+boundary will not be correctly generated.
+
+Several methods exist to extract incident and reflected components in measured
+seastates,
+and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
+and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
+multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
+reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
+measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
+
+\subsection{Array methods}
+\begin{itemize}
+	\item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate
+incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3
+positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation.
+\parencite{gaillard1980}
+
+	\item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards
+and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with
+small filters. SIRW Method, realtime.
+
+	\item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time},
+arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection
+coefficients, larger for low reflection.
+
+	\item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on
+a known current.
+
+	\item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced
+bias in array methods.
+
+	\item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components
+for non-linear waves.
+
+	\item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves.
+\end{itemize}
+
+\subsection{PUV methods}
+
+\begin{itemize}
+	\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined
+with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for
+reflectivities over 0.3.
+
+	\item ?? \cite{guza1984}: 
+
+	\item \cite{tatavarti1989incoming}: Decompose colocated random field
+		measurements of wave elevation and currenct velocity into incoming and
+		outgoing components. Less sensitive to noise.
+
+	\item \cite{kubota1990}: comparison between different wave theories:
+		quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results.
+
+	\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher
+	reflected energy than incident energy.
+
+	\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
+	horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of
+	irregular non breaking waves.
+
+	\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
+	noise-induced bias.
+
+	\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
+\end{itemize}
+
+\section{Modeling wave impact on a breakwater}
+\subsection{SPH models}
+
+\subsection{VARANS models}
+
+\section{Modeling block displacement}