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biblio/chapters/introduction.tex
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biblio/chapters/introduction.tex
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\chapter{Introduction}
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In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
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the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
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photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
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conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
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numerical modeling.
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The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
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the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
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of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
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\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
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This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
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obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
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thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
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However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
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it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
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buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
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especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
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simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
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waves for validation.
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